Egg whites bubbled like evanescent caviar on my long-stemmed Colorado Sour, but that didn’t surprise me. Neither did the scratch amaretto. What else to expect at The Family Jones, a spirit house that’s approaching drinks with the same local/seasonal/artisanal ethos that upended kitchens a decade ago? Head distiller Rob Masters set the stakes for this place when he voiced his aspirations last fall, shortly before the Family Jones opened: The vision, he said, called for “making anything a good bartender needs…for a world-class bar program.” Anything being the operative word.So I went in expecting marvels on the beverage side of this operation, and marvels was what I got in every spirit-swaggering (read: knock-your-pants-off) cocktail. What stopped me cold, though, were the blossoms. Blossoms! And not just as garnishes to drinks. Delicate orange ones, like petals of a marigold, were blown across a tender short rib, the final act of a careful, conscientious chef. Aren’t such flourishes the province of not just restaurants, but fine-dining establishments? What were they doing here, in a place widely deemed a bar?Truth is, the Family Jones isn’t really a bar. Yes, a copper still and wood fermenters on the mezzanine classify it as a distillery,… Read full this story
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